The narrow streets of Le Panier were not made for cars.  Long flights of stairs climb the quartier’s three small hills and even on gentle slopes streets are regularly interrupted by a step or two. ‘No entry’ signs and yellow lines are unnecessary here.  Residents colonise the pavements with plant pots and seats while pedestrians walk in the middle of the street.

Here in Marseille’s oldest neighbourhood many of the buildings have small windows.  Blank walls, rendered in the city’s characteristic soft pinks and creamy yellows, ofter tempting canvases for local street artists.   There are murals in bright, clashing colours but many seem to reflect the subtle colours of the walls around them, whether by chance or design.



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