Seen from the water Fort Saint Jean dominates the view of the harbour as it has for more than six centuries.  Founded in the 13th century as the headquarters of the Hospitaliers de Saint Jean de Jérusalem, an order of crusading knights, the fort was reinforced to protect the port of Marseilles, first by Roi René of Provence, later by order of Louis XIV of France.

Sitting low to the water alongside the fort a rectangular, dark building looks unexceptional from a distance.  In a closer view the building, linked to the fort by a narrow footbridge, reveals itself as a strikingly modern construction, massive but strangely insubstantial at the same time.  The fort no longer defends the port of Marseille.  Together with its modern neighbour the building now hosts the Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée or Mucem a ‘museum of society’ that looks back on the cultural history of the region, explores its variety today and reflects on possible futures.

 

Fort St Jean and the adjoining ‘bâtiment J4’ seen from the Frioul ferry
Vauban’s reinforcements included the digging and fortifying of an enormous moat to the landward side of the fort – now a road, crossed by a footbridge to the museum entrance
The outer shell of ‘bâtiment J4’ is a random lattice of reinforced concrete panels, offering protection from the wind and shelter from hot summer sun
Walkways and terraces are open to all during the museum’s opening hours – you only need a ticket to go into the exhibitions
There are open sunny terraces around the buildings as well as quiet shady corners

 

The recent building works in and around the fort are only the latest stage in a long series of adaptations and alterations. Over the centuries damage due to war or fire have led to additional rebuilding, most recently in 1944 when the weapons stores of the occupying forces were exploded by allied bombardment during the liberation of Marseille.  Mucem today is a patchwork of old and new, expertly stitched together.

 

A 19th century barrack block, the 17th century Tour du Fail and a 21st century reimagining of the spaces between
Gardens around the buildings include collections of wild plants indigenous to the region as well as plants with long cultural significance like these olive and pomegranate trees
Planting in the cracks between stone paving suits plants adapted to rocky crevices on the mediterranean coast
The ruins of the 13th church of St Jean have been protected with a modern roof; the square tower is the 15th century Tour du roi René
Sunny and shady terraces, well supplied with seats, are tucked into corners all around the buildings of the fortress

 

The exhibitions in the various Mucem galleries could keep the earnest visitor busy for a week. There’s a taste of the variety on offer here.  If it’s a fine day there are plenty of reasons to stay outdoors including ethnobotanical gardens, a variety of cafés, quiet terraces in sun and shade, and spectacular sea views.

 

Here’s a last look back towards the open sea just before closing time.

(Click to enlarge the image or to view the galleries)