A short boat trip from La Rochelle to l’Île de Ré gave just enough time to explore the island’s historic capital, St Martin de Ré. Although the port is ringed with cafés and thronged with holiday makers the narrow back streets are quiet and surprisingly green. Ancient and modern houses alike front directly onto the cobbled lanes but hollyhocks, lavender and roses find root in narrow pockets of earth. Walls are whitewashed, roofs are brindled clay tiles, doors and shutters are painted in subtle shades of blue, grey and green. It all looks timeless, spontaneous and accidentally tasteful. I guess the local mairie works hard to keep it that way.
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A rooftop view from the church bell tower. Click twice to zoom in on the detail.
July 26, 2018 at 9:22 am
This looks the perfect holiday in this long hot summer (which I’m not complaining about – it’s so rare in northern England).
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July 26, 2018 at 9:34 am
Both La Rochelle and Île de Ré were a lot cooler than Paris with fresh Atlantic air. Long, sunny days make great holiday weather when there’s a cool sea breeze, as on the Northumberland coast, but overall the trend to more hot summers is very worrying. 36° forecast today in Paris (which is where I’m at home just now).
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July 26, 2018 at 4:22 pm
Yes, I know long term we have to worry. But just for the time being …… I’m loving it.
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July 27, 2018 at 9:37 am
I like this description, “timeless, spontaneous and accidentally tasteful”. 🙂 Sounds like Italy. It reminds me of how Fabrizio once characterised the (only) difference between the French and the Italians, paraphrasing: The French take themselves a bit more seriously and they don’t know yet what to do with the pasta. 😀
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July 27, 2018 at 3:06 pm
Suspecting that the town hall on Île de Ré takes maintaining the air of timeless spontaneity seriously, I looked up the local council’s architectural guidelines. It’s a very thorough and careful document crystallizing the traditional style of the island that grew through necessity to accidental beauty. They’re not leaving much to chance any more!
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July 27, 2018 at 3:35 pm
Oh, it’s great to hear this. Somehow it doesn’t sound like Italy any longer. 🙂 Especially the words “thorough and careful”. 😉
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July 27, 2018 at 3:39 pm
Very French!
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